Framed Chinese Embroidered Silk Collar Qing Dynasty

Description

An embroidered silk collar from China dated to late Qing Dynasty circa 19th century. Known as Yunjian (Cloud Shoulder or … more An embroidered silk collar from China dated to late Qing Dynasty circa 19th century. Known as Yunjian (Cloud Shoulder or Cloud Collar), this multi-lobed textile piece was a detachable collar worn around the shoulders as part of the traditional Chinese garment accessory. With its origin back to the Han Dynasty and used it until the end of Qing Dynasty, the form evolves with time, but much of the ornamentation and fundamental symbolism remains the same.
This striking example features a two-tiered design with four inner lobes radiating into twelve outer lobes, all of which are variations of the shape of auspicious "ruyi", which represents the head of Lingzhi mushroom, a symbol of longevity. The elaborate embroidery and needlework cover each lobe with a wide range of motifs, including assortment of flowers, a heavenly peach presented on a plate above a pedestal, a cluster of pipa fruits, permanganate, goldfish, and a boy holding a lotus leaf sitting on lotus root (known as Lianzi, a symbol of fertility and childbearing). Small crystal beads were used throughout to link the pieces and a looped mandarin clasp remains in the front.
In Qing Dynasty, the silk collar with high quality was worn by noble or aristocratic women. The red color and the lotus boy symbol indicate that it was most likely part of the fashion accouterment worn during wedding ceremony.
The collar is beautifully float mounted within a double conforming mat in a giltwood frame and wood backing. A stunningly presented period piece with story to tell.
Reference: For a similar wedding collar, see item 95.34.2 in MIA collection. Illustrated on page 736-737 of book "Imperial Silks Ch'ing Dynasty Textile in the Minneapolis Institute of Arts". less