Framed Chinese Embroidered Silk Collar Qing Dynasty

Description

A silk collar from China dated to late Qing Dynasty circa 19th century. Known as Yunjian (Cloud Shoulder or Cloud … more A silk collar from China dated to late Qing Dynasty circa 19th century. Known as Yunjian (Cloud Shoulder or Cloud Collar), this multi-lobed textile piece was a detachable collar worn around the shoulders as part of the traditional Chinese garment accessory. With its origin back to the Han Dynasty and used it until the end of Qing Dynasty, the form evolves with time, but much of the ornamentation and fundamental symbolism remains the same.
This striking example features a two-tiered design with seven lobes on each circle, all of which are variations of the shape of auspicious "ruyi", which represents the head of Lingzhi mushroom, a symbol of longevity. The inner lobes feature elaborate embroidery floral design with long and short satin stitches. Notably, one panel has a double gourd design, the symbol of fortune. The outer lobes show a simpler but bolder vision with the outlines of the designs lineated with metallic threads buddled in chain stitches. Small jade beads were used to link the piece together and most of them still remain. The piece as a whole has a very pleasant lilac purple color, delicate with the jade beads.
In Qing Dynasty, the silk collar with high quality was worn by noble or aristocratic women. The red color and the lotus boy symbol indicate that it was most likely part of the fashion accouterment worn during wedding ceremony.
The collar is beautifully float mounted within a double conforming mat in a giltwood frame and wood backing. A stunningly presented period piece with story to tell.
Reference: For a collection of Chinese embroidered collars, see page 736-745 of book "Imperial Silks Ch'ing Dynasty Textile in the Minneapolis Institute of Arts". less